Travel

October 2007 / Bergman’s Enchanted Island

WHEN Ingmar Bergman died on July 30, he left behind three Academy Awards, a legacy as one of the greatest filmmakers of all time — and his home on the tiny island of Faro, Sweden. Population: 572, now 571.
Like Bergman, Faro is remote. Getting to the island, off the eastern coast of Sweden, takes a [...]

September 2007 / Paros, Greece, Is a Jam-Packed Island That’s an Open Secret

THE Greek island of Paros is not easy to get to, even with a map. During a recent trip to Athens, the conversation with a travel agent went something like this:
“I’d like to book a ticket to Paros.”
“Paris?”
“Paros.”
“France?”
“The island.”
“But France isn’t an island.”
Even when I learned where to put the stress (PAH-ros), I was out [...]

August 2007 / The Côte d’Azur, France

Published in the August 2007 issue of Travel + Leisure

July 2007 / Their House Is Your Trattoria

IT was lunchtime in Palermo, and in the old quarter, a small trattoria was filling up with burly construction workers and fishermen in sodden boots — all crowded around rickety tables watching a soccer match on a staticky television set. The place was noisy with clanking glasses and men talking over one another. Platters of [...]

June 2007 / 36 Hours in Florence

WHEN Roman soldiers founded Florence around 60 B.C., its original name was Florentia, meaning “may she flourish.” It may have taken some 1,500 years, but flourish she did — becoming home and inspiration to Dante, Michelangelo and a lot of other really, really talented people. That’s a source of pride for a city that clings [...]

May 2007 / In Palermo, Life Vibrates in a Fading Market

THE Vucciria, in the heart of Palermo’s historic old city, opens early. By 4 a.m., fishermen are hauling in the day’s catch; by 5 a.m., vendors are setting out crates of fruit and vegetables; and by 6 a.m., the place is bustling with shoppers. It’s a tradition that’s gone on, more or less the same [...]

May 2007 / My Uncle’s Ethiopia

Published in the May/June 2007 issue of the National Geographic Traveler

April 2007 / Affordable Europe: Florence

Florence is the land of the Renaissance, the home of the intelligentsia and masterworks, the purveyors of handmade shoes and the finest leather, and the stage for exquisite food and top-flight wine. In other words, it’ll cost you. But if you know where to look, you’ll see that some euros go farther than others.
Where to [...]

March 2007 / Where the Dinner Table Is an Altar of Thanks

ETHIOPIA is not a country people go to for food. But despite its lack of culinary fanfare, Addis Ababa, the capital city, has a rich and unexpected food culture. And more than just great meals, this is food that comes with a story.
This is a country that serves up grass-fed beef and organic vegetables by [...]

March 2007 / Rome Redesigns with Gusto

Published in the March 2007 issue of the National Geographic Traveler